At least it tasted good

Two years ago, I tenderly tucked away a recipe I found on the web, keeping it in limbo waiting for the perfect occasion...and as I contemplated my contributions to the Thanksgiving feast, I tripped over this recipe and remembered I wasn't the only one with fantastic food memories.

My Dad's a Brooklyn Chocoholic and that can mean only one thing for folks of a certain age: Ebinger's Blackout Cake.

Three layers of rich, moist cake held together with pools of gooey, fudgey, custardy heaven and sprinkled with a surprise crumb. And it's ALL chocolate. Not too bitter. Not too sweet. Just perfect. (sigh)

Honestly, I think the man still dreams of the pale mint boxes with thin chocolate-colored diamond lines that came from Ebinger's bakery.

As a kid, I remembered hearing Dad wax whimsically about the cake...as though it was a goddess appearing before mortals. Then I tasted the cake and understood exactly why he felt the way he did.

So for Thanksgiving, as we savor what's sweet, I baked Gale Gand's replication of the famous Ebinger's Blackout Cake...and walked down Memory Lane with my Dad.

Details?
Here goes...or click the link above.

Gale Gand's Ebinger's Blackout Cake
Makes 8 to 10 servings
Ingredients
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, softened at room temperature
¼ cup vegetable shortening
2 cups sugar
3 eggs
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
¾ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
2 ¼ cups cake flour
1 cup whole, 2% fat, or 1% fat milk
For the custard:
3 cups water
2 1/2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon corn syrup
1 ½ cups unsweetened cocoa powder
Scant 2/3 cup cornstarch
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Instructions
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Butter and flour two 9-inch cake pans. Cut 2 circles of parchment paper or wax paper to fit the bottoms of the pans, then press them in.
In a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment (or using a hand mixer), cream the butter and shortening together. Add the sugar and mix until light and fluffy. One by one, add the eggs, mixing after each addition. With the mixer running at low speed, add the vanilla, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt and mix. With the mixer running at low speed, add about 1/3 of the cake flour, then about 1/3 of the milk, and mix. Repeat with the remaining cake flour and milk and mix.
Pour into the prepared pans and bake until dry and springy to the touch and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean (a few crumbs are OK), 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then turn out onto wire racks and let cool completely, to room temperature.
Using a long serrated knife, cut the cake layers horizontally in half. Reserving 3 halves for the cake, put the remaining half in a food processor, breaking it up with your hands. Pulse into fine crumbs.
Meanwhile, make the custard: Pour 2 ½ cups of the water, the sugar, corn syrup and cocoa powder into a large nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, whisking occasionally.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the remaining ½ cup of water and the cornstarch. Whisk into the cocoa mixture in the saucepan and return the mixture to a boil, whisking constantly.
Cook, whisking constantly, until very thick, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla. Pour into a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, lightly pressing the plastic against the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Chill until firm, about 45 minutes.
To finish the cake, place a cake layer on a cake plate or serving platter (reserving the most even layer for the top) and spread with cooled custard. Top with another layer of cake, then custard, then one more layer of cake. Cover the top and sides of the cake with the remaining custard. Coat the cake with the cake crumbs. Chill until ready to serve, at least 2 hours. Serve the same day.


Be sure to use straight-sided cake pans...mine were not and the cake looked HORRIBLE. I can not stress this enough: The cake looked like I ran the car over it and that is NOT a memory suitable for thanks.

Dad enjoyed the cake. Said it was delicious. But I'm his daughter and he would've said that even if it tasted like car tire. Mom talked about her favorite Ebinger's cake, a minty chocolate confection. (Did Ebinger's bake anything but chocolate? Probably not!) 

And everyone around the table gave thanks that Hanukkah's around the corner and my latkes look as good as they taste!

L'dor va dor

Food links us to our families...it's the centerpiece for holidays...it binds us to our heritages...it satisfies us as we decompress after a long day. Tonight, it connects me with my Aunt who is leaving us way too young.

Moo, as I've called her since I met her at 15 when she started dating my uncle, is only 12 years older than I am and was more a beautiful big sister than an aunt...the sister neither of us had. I could confide in her; shop with her; and learn about life from her.

And I took notes.

Moo learned to cook from her mother...an incredibly gifted woman who regularly made baklava and myriad other sweet and savory delicacies for her family -- including her newly-extended family...and became a gifted cook in her own right.

She's Sephardic, so while her Middle Eastern cuisine seemed rather exotic at first, the food of her childhood became the food of mine.

And I took more notes.

When I set up my own house, Moo told me how to make fasulia, a hearty beef and green bean stew spiced with cinnamon and allspice that was often bubbling on her stove.

And it bubbled often on mine...but like Moo's and my relationship, too much came between us in recent years and the recipe -- like our bond -- went untouched...which is a shame. I needed to celebrate my Moo, so tonight I pulled out the yellowing loose-leaf page where I took down her directions and channeled one of my favorite people in the world.

Details?

Here goes:

-Toss 1lb chuck stew meat in enough flour to lightly coat and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

-Add about 2 T olive oil to hot heavy dutch oven and brown the beef in batches.

-When all is browned, add 1 large chopped white onion to pot to sweat in residual oil.

-When translucent, add 1 t cinnamon, a half t allspice, salt and freshly ground black pepper and combine.

-Add about 2 cups of water and on high heat, scrape all the lovely bits from the bottom of the pot.

-Return the meat and any accumulated juices to the pot and add enough water to almost cover the meat.

-Simmer covered for 30 to 45 minutes.

-Add 1 lb fresh green beans and 2 small (8 oz) tins of tomato sauce and simmer for an additional half hour.

-Check seasoning and enjoy.

I held true to Moo's original directions, resisting the urge to add a little harisa paste or some garlic or deglazing the pot with wine. But I did chop the last of our homegrown tomatoes and added them with the sauce because we all have to hold on to what's sweet as long as possible.

L'dor va dor - from generation to generation - I love you Moo,

Tzi-Tzi

My favorite thing to hear

I could've just as easily titled this: Should I go green or go red? I didn't have a clue when I started rustling through the fridge and lots of sauce bubbles began crowding my head.

Spinach! Use the spinach!
Chipotle in adobo! Mmmmm, yummy!
Green tomatoes! Ya got plenty!
Tomato sauce! Makes dinner saucy!

You're thinking: She's off her rocker (true, but you knew that already); Mix 'em together (er ... um, that idea wasn't coming together); What the heck are ya makin anyway? (Ah, my point exactly!)

Enchiladas! And for that I need two sauces: Red to mix with the filling and Green to pour over! WooHoo, way to bow to the bubbles!

As for the filling, I had already planned to 're-purpose' the leftover pork chops from a couple nights ago.

Leftovers are key to our weeknight meals as there's often an abundance in the fridge. If anyone can accurately predict how much dinner two teenaged boys will eat on any given night, please let me know. (There's probably a formula that involves Partial Equivalence Relation, but that math's beyond me.)

Anyhoo...

Details?
Here goes:

Green sauce
-In a blender, whiz about a cup and a half frozen spinach with 4 large smashed garlic cloves, 1 roughly chopped large green tomato, juice of 1 lime, 1 t olive oil, 1 t each ground coriander and cumin, a half t salt and freshly ground black pepper until you have a thinish pesto-like consistency.
-Pour into a bowl.

Red sauce
-In the same blender jar - no need to rinse - whiz 1 8oz-tin tomato sauce, 2 T chipolte chiles in adobo, 1 t taco seasoning, a half t allspice, a dash of salt and freshly ground black pepper until smooth.

Enchiladas
-Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
-Spread about a quarter cup of the Green sauce on the bottom of a baking dish.
-In a bowl, combine diced pork chops with 1 15-oz tin drained black beans and the Red sauce.
-Using 12-inch flour tortillas, put about 2 to 2 and a half heaping soup spoons of filling into the middle and roll over once, tuck in the ends then roll again. Place in dish seam side down and continue until you're out of filling or tortillas. I think I got 11 out of this.
-Once all the enchiladas are nestled in the dish, pour the Green sauce along the center of the rows of enchiladas and top with shredded cheese (cheddar, taco blend, Mexican blend, even mozzarella if that's what you have).
-Bake uncovered for 25 to 35 minutes until hot and bubbly.

Oh, and what's my favorite thing to hear?
The boys say: It's really good!

Ribolitta!

Yup, almost as fun to say as Poggibonsi!

As many of you know, I recently returned from a week in glorious Chianti, Tuscany for my brother's wedding, and the food there lived up to its reputation: Clean flavors, fresh ingredients and simple preparations all used in vibrant, luscious combinations.

During the week, I often said that even the 'basic' food in Italy is better than ANYthing you can get here. Of course, that goes for the wine too...and I had a LOT! No need to contemplate vintages or varietals. Have the House wine, it's Wonderful; the pasta is toothy beyond compare; and every morsel is homemade.

Since coming home, I've looked at food in a different way, though I'm not quite sure what the difference is. Maybe I'm even more conscious of making the most of what food's at hand, be it leftovers or what's in the garden...I honestly don't know.

What I do know is spending a week in Lecchi in Chianti was a culinary gift and blessing. I've made pasta that, though still a novice's version, was much better than anything from a box; I've combined three nights' worth of leftovers into a crostata, so it was like a shepherd's pie in a pastry crust; and last night, I made ribolitta, the traditional Tuscan bean soup thickened with bread.

Details?
Here goes:

-In a large pot on low heat, render 4 or 5 slices applewood smoked bacon that you've cut into 1-inch pieces...remove lardons from the fat and reserve.
-Up the heat to medium, add a T olive oil and sweat 4 large minced garlic cloves, 1 medium diced onion, about a cup and a third diced green pepper and season with salt, freshly ground black pepper and a half t crushed red pepper flakes.
-When translucent, add 2 15-oz cans cannellini beans with the liquid, 1 and a half t each dried thyme and basil and 1 8-oz can tomato sauce.
-Add 1 quart boxed chicken stock and 2 cups diced (fresh) tomatoes.
-Simmer for 40 mins, check seasoning, then add about 8-inches worth stale french bread cut into small pieces.
-Simmer another 15 mins, add in the reserved lardons and just before serving, quickly stir in 1 beaten egg.

Spoon into deep bowls, drizzle with a tiny bit of olive oil, sip some Chianti and enjoy!

If I had been at the villa in Lecchi (see pic above), I would've gone out the garden and plucked rosemary from the hedges instead of using dried thyme and I would've gotten kale or spinach at the Coop in Radda and I certainly would've had pecorino or parmesan to enrich the soup. But I didn't and it was still a delicious taste of Tuscan heaven.

School's Out: Day 1

...and it's Boyz v. Food...Skillman Style!

No, I'm not bucking for another TV show...but Inspiration struck Dill today and whispered: Dinner should be like what Adam Richman from Man v. Food (click the title for the travelchannel.com show) eats. Frankly, I think Inspiration whacked him upside the head, 'cuz that is some ridiculous food!

Since to market, to market I did not go -- it was Father's Day, for cryin all night! -- the cupboards are relatively bare...but the Bubbles took care of me providing chopped meat, baked beans, applewood smoked bacon and smoked gouda cheese...Oh, and naan bread to serve as buns...This could actually be fun! or fantastically gross...you be the judge.

Technically this - including the obligatory chips that John had to grab on his way home - could all be served on the same plate. And technically this all goes to the same place, as Moms with picky one-food-can't-touch-another kids announce with constant frustration. But the thought of this 'sandwich' had me begging for my Master Mixologist's Magic. And he gladly complied with a perfecto Martini.

Details?
Here goes:
-This is more of an exercise in construction technique than an exercise in culinary technique, but I will suggest seasoning the 1 lb of chopped meat with salt, pepper and adobo seasoning and add about 2 T of water so it won't dry out and shape it into a single 1-inch high patty.
-Fry the bacon, then cook the burger in the bacon fat. (This isn't for the faint of heart!) Oh and heat up the canned baked beans...I used a Maple Syrup-flavored variety.
-Begin construction with a thin layer of ketchup on one side of the naan, then the burger, load up drained beans, the bacon, 3 or so slices of smoked gouda (I would've prefered 1 slice, max) and finally as many potato chips as you can get on before topping with the other naan.

We sliced the 'masterpiece' in quarters and bolstered by a sip or 2 of cocktails for us and vanilla shakes for the boyz, took tentative bites. This is OK. Actually, it's pretty good...although it's still fantastically gross!

Confession No. 419

Nestled among my cookbooks is a well-loved and similarly-worn copy of The Betty Crocker Cookbook. It's the one who's front cover is floating around my pantry and who's back cover is holding onto it's last spiral ring; the one where pages 204 and 205 are stuck together and index pages have been sacrificed to the moving gods two homes ago.

That this Velveteen Compilation came into my cooking life at all was laughable...not a choice...it came with John, a gift to him as he set off to conquer adulthood. I've always derided it for being so 'pedestrian.'

So clearly, I didn't crack its spine for the delectable-sounding Fish-Vegetable Medley (page 71), Glorified Cheese Cauliflower (page 173) or even the Pineapple-Stuffed Spareribs (page 51)...gag!

No, it earned it's 'well-loved' status because when it comes to basics, this almanac cooks to perfection. Pancakes? Page 197. Hard-boiled eggs? Page 103. Teaspoons in a tablespoon? 3, on Page 357. For almost a quarter-century (yes, we've been together that long!), it's been my go-to guide for the fundamentals.

Until now.
I have fallen for another, and Betty can find her own way home.
(Sorry Saw Doctors, I had to!)
My heart now belongs to Joy. She's much more robust, more flexible and doesn't take herself nearly as seriously when she lectures on cheesecake (page 742)....She's the Joy of Cooking and I'm in love.

So when I asked the finals-taking, delayed-opening boys what they wanted for brekkie this week, I consulted Joy when they said: Waffles (page 646).

She didn't disappoint, offering three amounts for butter and the rationale behind each as well as a buttermilk variety...the sliced strawberries were Jere's idea.

Details?
Here goes:
(with props to Joy of Cooking, 75th Anniversary Edition...Rombauer, Becker & Becker)

-Your waffle iron is your own...figure out how to use it...mine's ancient, a gift from my bridal shower, so I can't help ya...
-Slice about a c of strawberries...or about 10 medium ones.
-In a large bowl, combine 1 and 3 quarters c all-purpose flour, 2 t baking powder, a quarter t baking soda, a quarter t cinnamon, 1 T sugar and a half t salt. Make a well in the center.
-In a smaller bowl, whisk 3 eggs, 1 and a third (or so) sticks melted butter and 1 and a half c buttermilk.
-Pour the contents of the smaller bowl into the larger one and whisk only to combine...
-Fold in the strawberries and work your waffle iron magic.

Joy bakes like a dream; sautes like a beast; and boils like a charm.

Like their father before them, the lads will have a woman at their sides as they prepare to conquer adulthood...Move over Betty, there's a new Chef in town and she's a Joy to behold.

Tethered

With some trepidation, I rejoined the World of the Wired and now have a mobile phone ...

And even though it's the fanciest, schmanciest, Blackberry I'm still not so sure I wanna be one of those folks who doesn't watch where she's walking or is a slave to the blinking red light - Again.

Yes, my friends, I was one of those people. One of the many driven to oblivion by the duty-filled call of the office, the obligatory ring from home and the seductive prospect of a magical email from afar. I believed each vibration held a vital piece of knowledge that surely would make me the envy of my universe.

And most often, I was mistaken:

Ooooo...an email! Could this be a morsel of political intrigue? I'd ask my self with glee.
Ohhh, I'd sigh after clicking my device to life...just another store's email telling me how out-of-fashion I'd be if I didn't buy a certain this that or the other - at 50 percent off, no less. Blech!

Although I felt naked at first, I began my three months of blissful ignorance the day I was let go and, soon I felt liberated. Liberated, I tell you! I was on my own without panicked requests for cheese-filled pretzels while checking out at the market...Just my GPS and me trolling for victuals.

Ah, those were the days...

But I'm resolving to be reasonable - where the mobile is concerned, anyway - and not let it control me...And if I slip into CrackBerry mode, just smack me!

To 'celebrate' my return, and the return of our patio steps, the Bubbles gave me Mediterranean Grilled Chicken Breasts!

Details?
Here goes:

-Fire up the grill!
-In a shallow dish (I used a 9x13 baking dish, or a ziptop bag would do) prepare marinade.
-Combine a quarter c olive oil, 4 minced garlic cloves, 2 T dried oregano, a half t each ground cumin, ground coriander, fenugreek and white pepper, 1 t lemon zest & 3 T lemon juice (from about a half of a lemon) and 1 t salt. You can put all this in a blender (with just rough chopping the garlic) and whir to combine.
-Butterfly the 2 lbs (or 4) chicken breasts by slicing them horizontally but not all the way through and soak in marinade for up to 4 hours....I did 30 mins and it was quite flavorful.
-Pop on the grill and enjoy!

I'm still torn about going mobile but am thrilled that I've kept my addiction to a minimum...tho, it did come with Solitaire...Oy.